I need a front Camber kit, what kind of camber kits you guys have installed, what brands are good, reliabilty issues and appox. $$$ all the feedback is appreciated, i looked at some skunk2's there's one with polyurethane bushings and rubber bushings, do any of you have any experience with them. This is mostly for city driving, and lot of it so longevity is a big factor for me. Thanks for all the feedbacks.

 

I love the skunk2 racing front camber kits, I have installed them in a few customers cars, and i will be installing a set in my own car. I can get you a price on them if you want a set.

 

$$$?

 

Anyone use buddy club? how are they?

 

i'm in for pricing on skunk2 front as well.

 

Using Skunk2 Pro on a DC. Needed them to correct bad camber from pothole. Haven't done any track days yet.

If you do a bit of research, you will find that some Blox kits and the cheaper Skunk2 Tuner kit (Tuner Series) "can" cause some indentations in your strut tower if you are lowered past a certain point (and with soft springs/shocks).



The Skunk2 Pro (Pro Series) has a lower profile height, and adjustment bolts underneath to make adjusting a bit easier. I haven't read about any serious problems with this kit.

I have read about problems with some Ingalls kits too.

Research was googled and on Teamintegras.net.

 

got the pro today

 

^how much???

 

260

 

Since you using this, every time you need to adjust the camber how do you do it, do you take it back to alignment. How long have you had them, what happens incase the ball joint goes bad?.

 

I highly recommend the Skunk2 units. They were on my GS-R for 150K kms before one ball joint went. Thats an incredible amount of mileage for such a part.

I would not recommend driving with these in the winter. The dirt sand salt takes a beating on them and after year 3 they are almost impossible to adjust. If you do use them in winter they heavily coat them in the fall with a greasy rustproofing spary that can be removed with degreaser in the spring.

 

I haven't had it on long. I had to correct camber from a pothole.

I used high strength locktite after I adjusted the camber. I don't plan on changing camber unless it is killing my tires, but toe usually does that.

I used a level, marked some spots on the floor that were as flat as I could find, then measured the floor in front and behind the tire. Used the level to measure the camber of the wheel. Took a eyeball guess based on all 3 measurements.

I had to raise the car up slightly to reach the bolts, and then stand on the car's rad support to compress the struts everytime I wanted to measure the camber! It's very tedious, but in the end worth it.

I still need to adjust for toe (which will be done professionally).

These balljoints are replacable as I got an extra one when I bought them used. Thanks Jason!

Even though Skunk doesn't mention it, I did grease up the balljoints before installing.

 

Ended up with S2 pro plus, cos the pro's for dc don't come with bushings, it was easier to pay $30 more for the new posy bushings than to pay labour and still use the old bushings. Just curious where can i get the ball joint incase i do need it in the future and how much?


The ball joints were easily movable by hand, as compared to reg ones on the control arm, why is that?

Thanks for all the posts it is really helpful, never had any experience with the camber kits before so all the advice helps, got my racknpinion, one lower control arm and camber done today going for alighnment tomorrow. This week's pay check still not enough to cover all the costs.

 

wow, that IS good. i am impressed! (and surprised!) i was considering the skunk2's simply because the ball joints are replaceable (and easily replaceable), and they are a US company (so replacement parts are easily obtained).



did you use anti-seize on the bolts? i anti-seize EVERY bolt that goes back on my car. and i have never had any issues taking stuff off after a winter (or multiple winters).

peter