Braking makes steering wheel shake *HELP*
 

Hey Everyone,

As some of you know, i recently got new pads/rotors and also a new brake master cylinder. I just noticed it today tho, when i drive at high speeds atleast 100KPH plus and i brake the steering wheel will shake. I tried searching and figuring out what the problem is but i have no idea. The wheels were torqued to spec with a torque wrench. The pedal brakes good, but it just feels like you have to press down a bit before it brakes or grips. If any1 has any idea what you think it could be or what i should check let me know. Thanks in Advance.

I'm not 100% knowledgeable on brakes, but from what I know, brake pads have a certain "break-in period", and if it isn't followed properly then it could cause the problem you have right now. Also, I can't help but to think warped rotors, but you said you just got them replaced so it couldn't be that... or could it?

sounds like you got brake deposits on your rotors. what pads are you using?

warped rotors

I'm not sure just using the regular pads/rotors. Nothing special, are you sure warped rotors? they are new, i was thinking maybe along the lines of what marty said about not breaking it in properly, but i wonder if that can be correct still.

Sounds like a symptom of warped rotors, but you said they are new so I have no clue.

check the outer tie-rods. Lift the car at the front and check for lateral play in the wheel/tire (<----left and right--->) movement. HTH

Before you do anything drastic, try rebedding your brakes. Give the rotors a light sand then go onto the highway and do some 120 to 80 hard stops. Be sure no one is behind you. Let a couple minutes pass between stops to let the rotors cool. The way pads work isn't the friction from the pad against the rotor, it's the pad material on the rotor against the pad that causes the friction. You have to have an even distribution of pad material in order for the pad to brake without vibration. The hard stops at speed will ensure an even distribution of the pad material.

There also might be an issue with improper pad install. Some pads have dimples on them that indicate which side goes on the calliper side. If the pad is on the wrong side it won't sit flat against the rotor. That will cause overheating and could warp rotor and/or prevent proper bedding.

+1 I agree...warped rotors

Jimmy remember when I asked you if you torque down the rims properly in the correct order in the air first, then on the ground? It's for this reason.


Your rims are NOT hub-centric which means that they don't hold on the hub. The lugs is what holds the wheel to the car, so if you torque down the rims improperly or if you don't fully hand tighten the lugs while the car is jacked, the problem that your having now happens.


It was the same when I borrow Ryan's rims for auto-x, the next run I had to undo and retighten the rims properly to get rid of the wobble.

Anyways, we can do it at the meet tomorrow. Just bring your jack with you.

Jimmy one problem which happens alot is someone drops one of your rotors in shipping... they warp so easily from that, trenell is right about torquing, but just get them put on a lathe and turn them and see how they look with a micrometer

Before anything else, make sure you didn't lose a wheel weight.