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-   -   Best way to sand/paint car at home? (https://www.torontointegras.ca/integra-technical-questions-tips-35/best-way-sand-paint-car-home-40243/)

JDM_overdose 11-11-2009 11:04 AM

Best way to sand/paint car at home?
 
If anyone has any information, please post it up.

I just bought a 1995 civic si and it needs some body work. I already cut the rust out and welded new metal on, I just need to know the best machine and best way to sand the WHOLE car down.

Thank you very much.

JDM_overdose 11-11-2009 11:57 AM

Correction*** Best way to sand/prime your car.

D.T.P 11-11-2009 03:04 PM

paint stripper ftw
then bondo little dings and primer the car.

tommygunz 11-11-2009 03:23 PM

you know how to cut pieces out and weld new ones on? wanna do mine for me, my rust came out this summer.

Vida 11-11-2009 05:16 PM

My buddy did some of my work for rust. Pretty much most of the drivers quarter panel is new with new sheet metal and all. tommygunz if you want I can link you up, hes in Markham though. He was with us on the C7 cruise in the red DC4

tommygunz 11-11-2009 05:25 PM

let me know how much, my rear is looking really sketch now, and it worries me lol

Vida 11-11-2009 05:26 PM

Pm a pic if you can of the rust so he can have a better idea of what it looks like

Artin D. 11-11-2009 11:24 PM

Oi, I am the rust fixer. David told me you needed work done, if you like you can PM me what you need done and I will do it for a good price!

Artin D. 11-11-2009 11:28 PM

To the OP, just use a vibrating sander (circular takes off too much and will leave waves) with 150 grit sanding pads. I find DeWalt works the absolute best when it comes to sanding pads, they come in a yellow pack! Just make sure you grinded the welds down also, or that would come out really shady. Did you tack weld or do a straight bead out of curiosity?

JDM_overdose 11-12-2009 09:22 AM

Ive already grinded down the welds. I did a straight weld, i was going to tack it then fiberglass, but thats too much work.

What i plan to do is prime it then paint it flat black. What is the best way to prime it. Spray cans? I really dont have the money to buy a compressor and a paint gun. and its just prime right?

Also, how do I bondo? is it that red compound? Do I put it where i want it then let it dry then sand it down?


Originally Posted by Artin D. (Post 289962)
To the OP, just use a vibrating sander (circular takes off too much and will leave waves) with 150 grit sanding pads. I find DeWalt works the absolute best when it comes to sanding pads, they come in a yellow pack! Just make sure you grinded the welds down also, or that would come out really shady. Did you tack weld or do a straight bead out of curiosity?


XNXIXTXRXOX 11-12-2009 03:06 PM

yes. i would reseach how to do body work before you do tho, or you'll ---- it all up.

and use "sandable" primer so you can do a better job by doing a few layers of primer and sanding inbetween coats.

JDM_overdose 11-12-2009 03:11 PM

Is a spraycan ok for priming. I believe i have a steady hand. Also, how many coats of prime should I do?

XNXIXTXRXOX 11-12-2009 03:16 PM

yea spray can is cool but do it somewhere thats not directly outside or you'll get all these lil particles in your paint. even by a 70 dollar little tap/tent enclosure lol. i would do 1 light, then another light. then wet sand that with like 1000 grit. then do one last coat. but thats just me, im a big beliver in really good prep work and eliminating ANY inperfections

Artin D. 11-12-2009 06:25 PM


Originally Posted by JDM_overdose (Post 289979)
Ive already grinded down the welds. I did a straight weld, i was going to tack it then fiberglass, but thats too much work.

What i plan to do is prime it then paint it flat black. What is the best way to prime it. Spray cans? I really dont have the money to buy a compressor and a paint gun. and its just prime right?

Also, how do I bondo? is it that red compound? Do I put it where i want it then let it dry then sand it down?

Okay, if you do a straight bead then you risk the chance of warping the metal due to large amounts of heat. If you're going to prime it and paint it flat black then just use flat black primer, saves money in the long run. If you're looking to go a satin flat black then yes, prime the whole car before hand. Laying bondo on a car is the hardest part, all you do is get a can and paddles. To activate the bondo you have to mix the hardener that comes with it. Apply quickly because it tends to become tacky if you wait too long... If you need any help with anything else just give me a shout and I'll help.

Artin D. 11-12-2009 06:26 PM


Originally Posted by XNXIXTXRXOX (Post 290026)
yea spray can is cool but do it somewhere thats not directly outside or you'll get all these lil particles in your paint. even by a 70 dollar little tap/tent enclosure lol. i would do 1 light, then another light. then wet sand that with like 1000 grit. then do one last coat. but thats just me, im a big beliver in really good prep work and eliminating ANY inperfections

I did my car outside... it came out fine but I did it on a nice day. No dust on it or anything.

JDM_overdose 11-12-2009 06:53 PM

Yea i did my hood on my other car outside, not so good.

So if you guys can give me a list of everything I will need to bondo, prime and step by step instructions, that would be really great.

Thanks a lot for ur help guys

Artin D. 11-13-2009 10:04 AM

1. Sand the WHOLE car with 150 grit sand paper, then 250... (makes for a smoother surface).
2. Take your time to prep the whole car properly, overspray is a bitch.
3. With your hand, run along the whole body, every square centimeter and check for dents. Mark them with a piece of chalk.
4. Either pull the dents or use bondo (lol).
5. Sand off most of the bondo before you start painting, multiple layers might be needed. You want a seriously smooth surface when you're done this.
Get a large tack cloth and wipe off the whole car and rid it of all of its dust.
6. Start priming. 2-3 coats, I do not sand in between coats... if you lay a light enough layer the first time then you will be fine during the rest of the process.
7. I personally do not sand the primer... you can if you like but it's not something I've done in the past with anything.
8. Make sure surface has no dust (if you did sand) and get to paintin'!
9. Let the paint sit for a bit and apply a clear coat. If you're going with a flat colour, then leave it!

That's the basic jist of it... if you really want to go the extra step I would add more. But for what you want to do this seems pretty basic.

JDM_overdose 11-13-2009 04:40 PM

THANKS!!!! now i can get started.

pics up next week

Spike 11-13-2009 04:41 PM

You should alway sand the primer otherwise you will not get that nice smooth finish.

JDM_overdose 11-13-2009 04:44 PM

I gotta bondo a lot of the car. I will use these steps for bondo and prime

whipe area
spray total prep to clean area
drill with round metal hair piece
spray rust nuterilazor 2 coates. 1 coat needs 24 hours to dry
sand with 220grit
tap rusted areas in to apply body filler
cut out metal patch to put over rust spot
mix bondo and hardener
apply bondo
cheese grade after 12min to get the bondo down
start sanding with 80grit sand paper(drill)
use sanding block with 80grit to make a level area
use fine grit to make it smooth
whipe surface clean no dust

primer time
do one coat
2nd coat after 5min
medium to fine sand paper to sand the primer
whipe surface

if any imperfections use glazing and spot puddy
apply on small ------er
------ on the spots
sand the spot glaze putty with 180 sand paper
whipe again
prime area 1 coat
take paper cover off car and sand primed spot with original body part with 400grit




Originally Posted by Spike (Post 290221)
You should alway sand the primer otherwise you will not get that nice smooth finish.


rdtx2005 11-14-2009 05:56 PM

to the painting dudes... what is the best ratio of base to thinner?

JDM_overdose 11-16-2009 07:55 PM

Update.

Bought all the materials I need.

Pics up soon of car in proress.

b20vtecboi 11-16-2009 09:56 PM

tremclad

mikefilipowicz 11-21-2009 11:40 PM


Originally Posted by Artin D. (Post 289960)
Oi, I am the rust fixer. David told me you needed work done, if you like you can PM me what you need done and I will do it for a good price!

i have a 93 civic hatch & the replacement 1/4s, how much to weld them in for me?

Artin D. 11-23-2009 11:44 PM


Originally Posted by rdtx2005 (Post 290300)
to the painting dudes... what is the best ratio of base to thinner?

That's all based on your preference.

Artin D. 11-23-2009 11:44 PM


Originally Posted by mikefilipowicz (Post 291077)
i have a 93 civic hatch & the replacement 1/4s, how much to weld them in for me?

Since it wont let me PM you, I'll post here. To cut them out and install the new ones I would be asking for 500, but I can do it for a bit less. Body shops usually ask for around 1500 do have a good job done on them.

Artin D. 11-24-2009 05:01 PM

Any more updates on how this is going?

JDM_overdose 11-24-2009 07:14 PM

Engine is coming out tomorrow. I will post pics tomorrow afternoon. I just got laidoff so the progress is slow. I gave my engine away for free, just to get it out of here. New engine will be installed before january.


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