B18B vs B20B
 

I am looking for an engine for my 99 LS.. i called up couple of places and I got a good deal for a B20B engine... The person selling me this engine is telling me it has more power then my current B18B1 engine... any thoughts on this? would you guys go with B18 or B20... what would give me more power?

Thanx

Personally, if it were for DD and leaving it essentially stock I would go for the B20B. The reason for this is b/c of the larger bore size which will result in more torque. The b18b and b20b are essentially (they do have minor differences such as some b20's come with a higher intake manifold) the same motor just different bore size.

b18: 81mm
b20: 84mm

so you would same they have the same power?

K20... :d

roughly the same horsepower output. I can't remember from the top of my head, but I am certain that horsepower output varied slightly between the years.

The B20 makes more torque though and parts are dirt cheap, that's one of the few main reasons people get them.

The B18B has 142 HP and 127 TQ. If you have the second gen B20B (B20Z here, 1999 - 2001 CR-V), they are 146 HP and 133 TQ, first gen (1996-1998 CR-V) are 126 HP and 131 TQ.

I would strongly suggest b20. if you can get your hands on a gsr trans, you will be loving life. I had a b18a1 which is 2hp less than what you have, with YS1 transmission which is actually shorter geared than the LS transmission. now moved onto b20 with hydro gsr transmission and oh boy is this thing fun. seems like day and night. though got to take into consideration the b18a1 was in DA integra, and now the b20 is in EG hatch. so weight difference is there but i would say go for b20.

A b20 in a EG hatch is nothing like a b20 in a DC integra, your car is like 600 lbs lighter then a DC. A stock B20 in a teg, you will notice a little more get up and go from the car.

Martin you can't compare an DC to a EG hatch, they are nothing like each other, nor is the weight of the cars.

Thanx for the reply, Spike that really helped... I will be looking for a 1999+ B20Z (and i read that the Z fits better in my 99 LS)...

if your looking for a swap the b20 isnt worth the work if your cars runnin now and your after more power

If you arnt doing majour engine work and just looking for a simple swap, I would stick with the b18b1. Not much difference. I think the b20s have 133tq. which isnt a lot. Not worth it. If you have a thought in your head that the tq will be amazing on the engine, get that out of your head. Just get a b18b1.

well couple of days ago I could not start up the car.. and found out that I am missing couple of teeth of my timming belt.. instead of me replacing the belt I would like to change the engine... So I am changing the engine definetly..and the B20 being cheaper and since it has the same power or slightly more, will go with that option...

Also, if I put a GSR tranny, would i gain power on my 99 LS like it was mentioned above? or that makes no difference on my integra?

You wont gain more HP, just shift quicker because the gears are shorter. But not much of a difference at all. a b20 and a ys1 tranny isnt anything special at all.

Okay thanx!

But its what your prefer. If you plan on turboing your engine or doing an NA, this engine is good for it

GSR transmission has shorter gears therefore acceleration will be quicker. closer gear ratio will be easier for the engine to rotate the wheels.

Martin is right. But its nothing significant.

BUT with the GSR tranny wouldnt it be reving at a higher rpm on the expressway?? like the type Rs??

Yes... the short geared 1st gen GSR YS1 tranny will provide the motor to move through the powerband quicker, which will result in quicker acceleration.

The downside to that is the increase in RPM's while on the freeway. If I remember correctly in my DB2, when I was cruising @ 120 along the freeway, my RPM was @ 4000 give or take.

Double edged sword my friend...

Thanx everyone... any tips on what mods I should do before putting it in?

I would do some wire tucking if you want a clean looking engine bay. Now is your change to completly strip your engine bay and fresly paint it.

You can relocate some things to make more space aswell.

thats what i wanna do for my db1 :werd:

Can you fit a strut bar on the integra with a b20? My friend has a b20z in her 97 integra, she says u cant fit a strut bar, there is ---- in the way. Driving both cars, it doesn't really feel like there is much of a difference just a lil more torque

kk the B20 has thinner walls, it is the same engine and all except its bored out more to make it the 2.0l instead of the1.8l b18. so if u get the b20, watch out about putting a turbo, the pressure would probably break the walls because they are thinner, mind u, u can put a turbo, but its highly unrecommended, the b18 is better for turbo and higher pressure mods, but otherwise, if a turbo is out of the question, b18 all the way. and may i recommend engine land on 32 Ingram Drive for getting it, i got one for 400 bucks, inported from japan, so the thrmos. needs to be changed, the mount on the engine, and the intake and some other sensors. but piece of cake if u got all the stuff. the car started with nothin even attached except the fuel and half the wire harness, on a dime. the engine had 50,000kms on it, i strongly suggest looking into it.. good luck with whatever you choose.

Also, I believe the B20 is not meant for high revving. So if you are planning to mod and track the car, the B18 might be better. If its just a DD, then the B20 is good.

yes i believe the redline is like 400 rpms less on the B20, if not more, but its not that big of a deal, besides, the added torque on the B20 helps cope with the non-high revving..
as for teggboi, ya you can, i have one, but you cannot use the B20 intake manifold, for one, the hood wont close. with the integra manifold you should be fine. its not like the engine is bigger by feet or anything, If anything, a cm?

Why do you boneheads bring up 3 month old threads?? Can you read the dates of the posts before hand?

Three month old threads are ok for discussion. Its really the REALLY old stuff over a year thats kinda much. Even worse is the for sale threads when theyre bumped 3 years after its been posted. *sigh*

Well if it was actually useful information then i'd give props, but now its all "i believe" or "i think" half the ---- you guys say is wrong or guesses/stuff you heard.

Yea I can't believe how much misinformation is in this thread :|

B20 is NOT ideal for turbo or high revving (although I've taken mine to 7,200rpm multiple times)

B20 IS an economical choice if you have to replace your engine, but it's NOT worth swapping out a perfectly good B18.

^absolutely. If you have an ls that is working perfectly, its not worth swapping B20. Though if you are going to build it, I'd say B20 is the way to go. That's ofcourse is money isn't an object. Sleeved B20v with high compression pistons and built head will make amazing numbers. But its all big money really.
If you are going boost, stick with b16/gsr/itr. More reliable bottom end and head flows a lot better than ls.

^ +1