B18b or B20?
Before I take any advice, or make a decision, I would think long term. What are your future plans for the motor?
If you are planning to do a VTEC conversion, you would want reliability. Now I know that this topic has been beat to death.
When looking @ a motor build you have to look @ that particular motors strengths and shortcomings.
In terms of a Frankenstein motor build. You are essentially taking a motor (b18b/b20) that Honda engineered for a specific purpose, and asking it to do something it was never designed to do. You are basically taking it out of its comfort zone.
To make the motor last a little longer I would do a few things:
1. Change the rod bolts, ARP is the way to go.
2. Set your redline @ 8. (now I know ppl will start debating this. It's a matter of opinion, and this was my opinion.)
3. Balance your internals (vibrations in the motor will severely reduce the life of the motor, why do you think Type R cranks have counter weights? So it is very stable @ high revs.)
4. If you are going the b20 route, I would use a block guard. From my experiences with b20vtecs, they are GREAT motors. If built right. Due to the thinner cylinder walls they are more prone to cracking. Also for some reason b20 cylinder walls have a tendency to sink. I don't remember the reason why but you can research further.
IMHO I think if you are going the vtec route I would go with a b18 just b/c of the thicker cylinder walls. They add a little extra strength against the added force applied on it due to the longer stroke of the crank.
I know it's been a pretty long post, I'll just leave it with one more thing:
Power/Cheap/Reliable: Pick 2
Have fun!!!!
If you are planning to do a VTEC conversion, you would want reliability. Now I know that this topic has been beat to death.
When looking @ a motor build you have to look @ that particular motors strengths and shortcomings.
In terms of a Frankenstein motor build. You are essentially taking a motor (b18b/b20) that Honda engineered for a specific purpose, and asking it to do something it was never designed to do. You are basically taking it out of its comfort zone.
To make the motor last a little longer I would do a few things:
1. Change the rod bolts, ARP is the way to go.
2. Set your redline @ 8. (now I know ppl will start debating this. It's a matter of opinion, and this was my opinion.)
3. Balance your internals (vibrations in the motor will severely reduce the life of the motor, why do you think Type R cranks have counter weights? So it is very stable @ high revs.)
4. If you are going the b20 route, I would use a block guard. From my experiences with b20vtecs, they are GREAT motors. If built right. Due to the thinner cylinder walls they are more prone to cracking. Also for some reason b20 cylinder walls have a tendency to sink. I don't remember the reason why but you can research further.
IMHO I think if you are going the vtec route I would go with a b18 just b/c of the thicker cylinder walls. They add a little extra strength against the added force applied on it due to the longer stroke of the crank.
I know it's been a pretty long post, I'll just leave it with one more thing:
Power/Cheap/Reliable: Pick 2
Have fun!!!!
lol... sorry. What tranny do you currently have? Trannies make the motor. If you use a LS tranny on a Typee it wll perform like ----. I would @ least recommend you getting a b16 tranny. So if you are going to go that route. A short block would be fine.
Honda are notoriously known as the torqueless wonders b/c of the short geared trannies. they can go thru the rpm band very quickly.
Hope that helps you out
Honda are notoriously known as the torqueless wonders b/c of the short geared trannies. they can go thru the rpm band very quickly.
Hope that helps you out
i do have an ls tranny but planning on either going b16 or gsr route for the tranny not sure as yet because i do plan on making it vtech, just not sure which route to go.
Gotta do a little more research
thanks for the advice.
Gotta do a little more research
thanks for the advice.
Sleeving can get pretty expensive. Darton mid sleeves last time a checked was 550USD. Then you have to get them installed I've asked Graham from Canadian Cylinder Heads it would cost 2000 total including the mid sleeves.
So............ You have to figure out how much you want to spend.
Let's just do some quick math.
2000 sleeves
800 for short block
300 for a b16 head
ls vtec conversion kit from GE like 300
ARP rod bolts
balance and polish rods 200 I think last time I talked to gram
Labour to install varies depending on who's doing it.
That right there is shy of 4000.
Man for that money I'd spend that on a Typee or something.
Why don't you just buy a b18b thicker cylinder walls
Balance the internals
Since the internals are going to be out. Use forged pistons, they are stronger than the cast versions used by Honda. They use cast b/c they have oil squirters. Since b18's don't have oil squirters. I would @ least go for Forged.
That in itself costs about 2000, and you already have the block completed. Just hone the cylinder walls. So you would use 81.5 mm pistons. Honestly lsvtecs aren't bad @ all they rev higher, and they can theoretically take more abuse then its b20 counter parts. Now I remember stating before the b20's cylinder walls do have a tendency to sink, and that is also with aftermarket sleeves as well. If you really want a b20, get a b18 and bore it out, and call it a day.
So............ You have to figure out how much you want to spend.
Let's just do some quick math.
2000 sleeves
800 for short block
300 for a b16 head
ls vtec conversion kit from GE like 300
ARP rod bolts
balance and polish rods 200 I think last time I talked to gram
Labour to install varies depending on who's doing it.
That right there is shy of 4000.
Man for that money I'd spend that on a Typee or something.
Why don't you just buy a b18b thicker cylinder walls
Balance the internals
Since the internals are going to be out. Use forged pistons, they are stronger than the cast versions used by Honda. They use cast b/c they have oil squirters. Since b18's don't have oil squirters. I would @ least go for Forged.
That in itself costs about 2000, and you already have the block completed. Just hone the cylinder walls. So you would use 81.5 mm pistons. Honestly lsvtecs aren't bad @ all they rev higher, and they can theoretically take more abuse then its b20 counter parts. Now I remember stating before the b20's cylinder walls do have a tendency to sink, and that is also with aftermarket sleeves as well. If you really want a b20, get a b18 and bore it out, and call it a day.
You could also consider getting a stroker kit over time. Many do not realize this is available.
Take a 1.8 and stroke it to a 2.1. Mind you this is costly but realiable.
I have a B18C1 and this is what I plan on doing in 1-2 years. Adds great torque.
Take a 1.8 and stroke it to a 2.1. Mind you this is costly but realiable.
I have a B18C1 and this is what I plan on doing in 1-2 years. Adds great torque.
Yes.. the motors are torqueless as they are. But the term torqueless wonders mean that they accelerate hard for something that doesn't have a lot of torque. This is b/c the short geared trannies help the car propel through the power band very quickly.
Last edited by JustinDM; Oct 2, 2009 at 09:47 PM.
keep your ls bottom and go b20 head..b20 has more torque then the b18b..change your tranny to b16 or type r lsd tranny..they both dont vary too much in prices it all depends on what you wanna do really..and whatever you do just do it right because if you screw up then you gotta spend more dollars in the long run..just think long run when doing these kinda things..good luck and have fun
dude i suggested him to go b20 head and ls bottom and then i said b20 has more torque then b18b which is true..and yes the head has nothing to do wid it, but thats not what i meant..b20head and ls bottom was a suggestion and how b20 has more torque is a separate thing
i personally havent dealt with b20s but from guys that have b20s they suggest to go with b20 because it has more power and that the ls bottom is better to keep then changing the bottom end to a b20 just in case you decide to go boost..but the project i have in mind for my car is a gsr head and ls bottom end with b16 tranny then boost..im not too concerned about b20s..im suggesting information based on guys who have b20s which i felt would be helpful since DreDay is debating between a b20b or b18b swap
i personally havent dealt with b20s but from guys that have b20s they suggest to go with b20 because it has more power and that the ls bottom is better to keep then changing the bottom end to a b20 just in case you decide to go boost..but the project i have in mind for my car is a gsr head and ls bottom end with b16 tranny then boost..im not too concerned about b20s..im suggesting information based on guys who have b20s which i felt would be helpful since DreDay is debating between a b20b or b18b swap
either i dont get what your talking bout or its just ubsurd.
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