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***How-To*** Leakdown Test
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What is a leakdown test? Well a leak down test determines exactly how much compression your losing and from which cylinder, as well as the cause of it. More on that later. This test along with a compression test will determine the health of your motor.
Tools Needed: Compressor 5/8” Spark Plug Socket 10mm 19mm Rachet 6” Extension Leakdown Tester 1) First things first, find a place to work on your car. 2) Proceed to plug in your compressor and set it up with the hose attached and pressure regulated between 60psi and 100psi. I choose 100psi. Attachment 24866 3) Plug the gauge half of the leakdown tester into the compressor and then turn the adjustment knob so that it reads 0Psi. Attachment 24867 4) Remove the cover on the underhood fusebox. Should look like this. Attachment 24868 5) Locate the 15A fuse in the upper lefthand corner and remove it. This prevents fuel from being squirted into the engine when manually cranking it over to TDC for each cylinder. Attachment 24869 |
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6) Proceed to the car and remove your spark plug cover, spark plug wires and valve cover.
Attachment 24862 Place all the bolts and valve cover grommets in a safe place. For me it's in the spark plug cover. Attachment 24863 7) Then remove each spark plug like so. Attachment 24864 Attachment 24865 |
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Once all the spark plugs are removed, place them in a safe place.
Attachment 24858 This is also a good time to check them to see what condition there in. Attachment 24859 8) Once each spark plug is removed, you then set cylinder 1 to TDC (Top Dead Center). You accomplish this by manually turning over the engine with the 19mm socket and extention on the rachet. Proceed to turn the engine counter-clockwise until your cam gears reach TDC for cylinder one. Attachment 24860 9) Proceed to screw in the hose of the leakdown tester into cylinder 1 Attachment 24861 |
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10) Attach the other half of the leakdown tester (gauge) to the hose in the spark plug hole, cylinder 1 and read the percentage of air that is leaking out of the cylinder.
Attachment 24857 1-10% leakage is normal. OEM Honda Specs. No engine is 100% leak free even when brand new. If the gauge reads above 10%. Listen to where the air is escaping from. The bigger the amount of leakage the harder it is to hear. Think of blowing thru a huge pipe with you mouth compared to a straw. Air leakage Table: Leaking out the exhaust = Exhaust Valve Leaking into the intake/throttle plate = Intake Valve Air bubbles in the top of the radiator(take off the rad cap) or into the adjacent cylinder = headgasket Oil cap, Dipstick, Bottem end = Piston Rings Remember that 1-10% is normal so you will still hear some air leaking out in general. Just more than 10% isn't normal or within Honda specs. 11) Repeat steps 8-10 for the remaining 3 cylinders and record them on a piece of paper. 12) Put everything back together. Install is the same as removal. Just follow the steps in reverse. Good luck |
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Nice Write up, would try it if I had a compressor Lol
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nice DIY!!
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